Tuesday, March 31, 2015

Road Trip Down South - Santiago and Tumunan Lodge

We headed out on late Friday morning with the destination for the evening, Tumunan Lodge, a rather remote place southeast of Santiago that we had stayed at before.  Along the way, we stopped in Santiago.  We were all excited to get a rare clear day in Santiago (there is usually hazy smog) so that the snow capped high Andes were easily visible.
A very rare glimpse of the high Andes near Santiago - usually the smog is too bad to see these mountains
We visited Los Dominicos, a craft village in Santiago.  This unique place is historic with an old adobe church (San Vincente Ferrer, closed when we visited) and well over 100 small artisan and artist areas in each small adobe house.  The village is set around small courtyards and is very peaceful.  The stuff for sale is mostly high quality (and not cheap) and it is irresistible, at least to me.  I purchased in abundance stopped only by the difficulty of getting stuff back to the U.S.  Another highpoint of the area is that it is a cat haven.  Shop owners feed the many cats who live in the complex - they seem to be happy, lazy and relaxed (the cats, that is).  It is rare to see a cat haven in Chile as the Chileans seem much more oriented towards their numerous (and nice) dogs.  Randy and Arin felt hunger pains and ate Completos (the loaded hot dogs)  in one of the courtyards while Ash and I shared some tasty empanadas.
The pretty church at Los Dominicos, sadly closed when we visited
The bloodied statue of Jesus just inside the entrance
Ash and Arin look forward to a little shopping
One of the many happy cats that live in this idyllic place
One of the shop proprietors wrapping Alice's purchases
Another happy cat rests in a quiet corner of the large craft/art complex
A typical scene of the place - small walkways sided by interesting and varied shops
A light lunch in the courtyard of Los Dominicos
Well, not so light for Arin as he finished off two completos
Randy was satisfied with one and an Escudo beer
Two happy cats on a shop roof
Another view of the cat on the roof
The shop proprietor was feeding these cats (about six of them) while I was there - he was very caring and it all reminded me of the cat whisperer at Bilkent University (Ankara, Turkey), Tore Fougner, and the Bilcat organization
Alas, it was time to press on and we took the freeway south of Santiago as far as the large town of San Fernando.  We headed east on a small paved road on the way to Tumunan Lodge.  After about 15 miles the road becomes a decent gravel road for another 10 miles.  We thought we were lost near the place (even though we had been there before) but we pressed on and got there around 6:30 PM.  Will, the friendly English owner (with his Chilean wife, Carolina) met us and helped to our rooms.  This lodge has four rooms for rent and is designed for getting back to nature and relaxing.  The rooms are comfortable though far from luxuriousness and there is a nice living/dining area and a small bar.  We had ordered dinner that night (the nearest restaurant is quite a drive away) and spent the pre-dinner hour in the hot tub (except for Arin).  The hot tub is the glory of Tumunan Lodge.  It is wood fired (and actually all wooden) and has wonderful views of the heavens, especially enticing at night.

The exterior of Tumunan Lodge with its nice outdoor spaces
An evening view of the welcoming main living area - lounge and dining room combined with small bar off to the right
Arin and Ash in their bedroom for the night
The best part - the wood fired and all wood hot tub under the stars and sky
Some of the garden plants
Relaxing before dinner
Randy enjoys his pisco sour
Also staying at the lodge were an older and stranger (if I can say so) American couple from Florida who had recently retired there from the U.S. Virgin Islands.  Don and Katy were chatty enough but in an odd way - they were in Chile to go on an extended cruise leaving from Valparaiso the following week.  Pescatarians and non-drinkers, they were into nature, exercise and reading.  We had a nice gazpacho, pork with potatoes and spinach and a pretty desert along with two great Chilean wines - a sparkling white and a terrific local red blend.  Thus fortified we all returned to the hot tub (this time, Arin partook) and watched the stars.   Randy and I left the guys to it and headed to bed (too much wine and hot tubbing for me).  The guys partied it up until the wee hours in the bar with Will and a young Norwegian couple who were traveling / semi-working around the South America (and the world).  By the bar bill the next day, Will's bar stock of gin and tonics, beer and more must have been pretty exhausted.
The dining room (set for breakfast actually)
Dinner time
The gazpacho with tomatoes from the Tumunan Lodge garden
Proprietor Will shows off the sparkling wine we choose to start with
A close up of the label
The really excellent red we drank from a nearby boutique winery
The pretty and creamy dessert
Needless to say, Arin and Ash were not exactly springing out of bed the next morning but did rouse themselves for Carolina's tasty breakfast of eggs, breads, yogurt, cereal, fruit, etc.  They dragged a bit (especially Ash) but we got loaded up by 10:30 AM to head out for the second leg of our trip.

Morning at Tumunan Lodge
Arin makes friend with the huge and affectionate Saint Bernard - there was another friendly dog too which was smaller (well, all dogs would be smaller than this gentle giant)
Tumunan Lodge is not so easy to get to and is pricy but the unique ambiance and the hot tub experience are worth it.  We only wished we would have had longer to enjoy it - hiking around is a delight and there are horses too for riding.  Next time...

At dinner - glad to be back for a too short visit to this unique place

Sunday, March 29, 2015

Keeping Busy in Vina and Valpo


Monday night we visited La Flor de Chile for a late dinner.  Everyone was happy with this choice and food and drink abounded.  A good ending to our wonderful road trip!
Arin orders from our friendly waiter with good English (the waiter, not Arin)
Ash and Randy are happy to be back in Vina
Celebrating the road trip success
Randy with his tortilla (eggs, potatoes and cheese) for 2 (or maybe 4 or 5)
Arin ordered the classic "pobre" - meat with grilled onions and fried eggs on top of French fries
Ash opted for the pork with fries -  also massive

This week brought work for Arin and I, and a little for Randy and Ash too.  Ash, Arin and I visited the main port of Valparaiso (Valpo) on Tuesday.  This is a busy port and quite congested because it is located in the central city.  Randy stayed at the university and assisted some students with their English speaking and writing.

Randy was gratified and impressive he was termed "Profesor Randy Smith" in the publicity for his English services
The active main port of Valparaiso has five berths
The rubber wheeled landside cranes
They stack them high because of the congested space
The relatively narrow aisles between landside containers
The cranes in operations.  The white containers are always "reefers" - refrigerated containers
A crane on a forklift truck moves a container off of a truck
A portable crane (stacker) in action with reefer containers
Stacks of containers either waiting for loading on a ship or a truck
Detail of the massive tires of the wheeled landside cranes
Reefer containers
We could not get out of the van for most of the port tour but we were able to here - Pedro, Jimena, Rosa, Alice, Arin, Ash and Diego
The guys looking dapper
One of the smaller ships in port - they use two to three tugs per vessel to bring them into and out of port
This hard working port is active 24/7
The gantry cranes on the quay side
On the top of Pedro's building (the port authority) to view the operations from above
An awesome tour of an interesting and important place - thank you, Pedro for arranging this!
We went to lunch at the nearby restaurant, Las Brasas Portenas, and then returned to work at the university.  Then, Jimena took us all to visit the hills of Valparaiso.  We started with a ride on an ascensor, a historic elevator.  There are some 14 of these in the city and they are still used daily by the residents to get around in these steep hills.  Jimena drove us through both the downtown on the flats and also through the picturesque if a little seedy hill neighborhoods.  Of course, everywhere, the views were breathtaking.

Our frequent lunch place because it is next to campus and the food is quite good
Waiting for lunch
Ash and Alice choose avocado stuffed with shrimp salad and cheese empanadas
The restaurant's open coal grill was amazing - they cooked the meat and toasted the rolls here.  It was kept hot by the chef blowing a hair dryer on it - yes, we saw this phenomenon with sparks flying!
The ascensor, Ascensor Artilleria, we used to ascend the hill near the port
Two cars go simultaneously
Inside the aged cabin - probably dating from around 1900
The steep rails
This wheel at the top pulled us up
Ash on top the hill after the ride on Ascensor Artilleria
Same view with Arin
The port from this vantage point
The earlier rain (very unusual for this time of year) gave way to a very bright, beautiful late afternoon
Another shop of the port with the city in the background
Last picture of the port with the reefer containers in the foreground
A lazy cat at one of the shops on the hill
The statue commemorating a naval battle in the central square of Valparaiso
This bizarre and huge statue of ?? made from copper is near the central congress of Chile in Valparaiso
The modern congress building with its square opening in the middle
On top one of the hills while riding along the "waist" street - a long road that winds along the hillside and cuts across most of the hills
Randy and Alice with the same view
The lively columns in the park at this overlook
Each was designed and made by a local artist
The mosaics were so nice and fitting with the city
We spent the evening at the apartment watching some sports and Netflix and eating leftovers.  It was nice to chill.
The splendid sunset from our balcony on Tuesday evening
On Wednesday, Arin and I worked all day at the university as there was a colloquium organized where I spoke along with Rosa and Alejandro MacCawley, a professor from Santiago.  The colloquium had lunch at the same restaurant and was very international with people from Chile, Argentina, Finland (!), the U.S., Spain and more.  There are quite a few people from Spain and Argentina working in Chile because the economies of their home countries are in bad shape.  This is true in academics as well as private industry.

The department sign announces the entry to the colloquium

Rosa and Cecilia introduce the colloquium

Alice gives her talk with slides in Spanish but speaking in English

Rosa gives her talk in English also with Spanish slides

Alejandro mixed it up with slides in English and speaking in Spanish - he gave a fascinating talk on the effects of temperature during wine transit
The colloquium lunch at the same restaurant, Las Brasas Portenas, naturally

The international group at lunch

Professors came from three or four universities in the area

The student, at right, is from Finland and had previously studied in New Zealand

More of the lunch crowd - from left to right, Finish, Peruvian, Spanish (actually Catalan), and Argentinian
Ash and Randy went to the other PUCV campus, in the suburbs, where science is located.  He had a good visit with faculty from the chemistry department with mutual presentations and a lab tour.  Ash is optimistic that some kind of future collaboration can happen.  We hope so as we would love for him to return with us one day.

The fiery sunset on Wednesday evening
Another shot - and the the photos do not do it justice
Our dinner Wednesday evening was at our favorite Vina restaurant, Divino Pecado, with our favorite waiter, Mario.  We were hosted in grand style by Ricardo, the department chair of industrial engineering at PUCV.  Rosa also attended the festive dinner.  We dined well on machas, cerviche, pastas and pisco sours.  Ash and Randy finished up with camomile liquor, which they both loved, while Ricardo drank herb tea where they brought a vase of fresh green herbs for him to make his own tea.  Very classy!  Ash and Arin stayed afterwards, meeting PUCV graduate student Diego, for a late night evening at a local bar and a brief stop at the casino.

Ricardo and Alice enjoy a laugh
Ash and Rosa had a good evening too
Randy and Ash enjoyed the exotic camomile liquor
Our sassy but excellent waiter, "Super" Mario, who spent more than a decade in New York City before returning (wisely) to Vina
Arin and Alice worked all day at the university on Thursday and decided on the project plans for going forward.  The ladies (Rosa, Jimena and Alice) had lunch in Jimena's office - tuna and hard boiled egg salads with cheese quesidillas and a half bottle of rose.  Very delicious and relaxing - thanks to Jimena.  Ash and Randy took a long walk around Vina on this excellent day, weatherwise, and visited the big park in Vina and La Sebastiana (the Valparaiso home of Nobel laureate Pablo Neruda, now run as a museum).  They most enjoyed their coffee with ice cream in Vina though - a new taste treat.
The entry to Alice's office area on the sixth floor
Home, sweet office
View from the window looks over to another engineering building
The Pacific Ocean from Alice's office window
Looking the other way from the office gives a nice city and hills scene
Ash and Randy wait on the second floor courtyard of the engineering building on Thursday evening to pick up Alice and Rosa
We met up for dinner at Jimena and Pedro's suburban house in Quilpue (their main abode is a city apartment).  Their big garden was full of fruit trees, an almond tree, avocado plants and more.  Jimena outdid herself with two salads (avocado with shrimp, tomatoes and onions), mashed potatoes and pan fried reinata fish with shrimp sauce.  We finished with ice cream topped by home canned peaches from Pedro's mother.   Drinks were fresh made pisco sours, local microbrew beers and some very nice red wine.  With the clear evening and the details on the half moon easily visible, it was the perfect evening.
The house was built by Jimena's parents but they decided to stay in their city apartment
Two of the handsome dogs at the neighbors
A big cactus in the backyard
Ash tries a fresh grape from the arbor in the backyard
Pedro, Agustin and Jimena in the kitchen
Arin and Ash wait pensively for dinner
Jimena decorating the delicious shrimp and avocado salads with homemade mayonaise
The guys await food
Ash, Randy, Diego and Alice take a look at Jimena's large assortment of local beers
And, there was wine too, of course
A close up of the excellent starter
Agustin looks a little tired after his long day at school
Alice and Rosa
The kids enjoyed the meal almost as much as the adults
Jimena with little Arturo
The crowning glory - a clear sky with a sharp half moon